Keeping Pigs on a Smallholding: What You Need to Know

Why Pigs Are a Great Smallholder Choice

Pigs are intelligent, fast-growing, and highly rewarding to keep. A pair of weaners bought in spring and finished by autumn is one of the most efficient ways to produce high-quality pork from a smallholding. They're also excellent at clearing rough ground and converting waste vegetation into meat. That said, pigs are strong, curious, and determined — they will test your fencing, your patience, and your problem-solving skills. Go in prepared and they're a joy. Go in underprepared and they'll be out of the field before you've finished your tea.

Before You Start: Legal Requirements

Pigs are one of the most regulated livestock species in the UK. You must have the following in place before your pigs arrive:

• County Parish Holding (CPH) number: Apply through the Rural Payments Agency (England), RPW (Wales), or SGRPID (Scotland). You cannot legally keep pigs without one.
• Herd mark: Register as a pig keeper with APHA (England & Wales) or SGRPID (Scotland) to receive your herd mark. This is used on ear tags and movement documents.
• Walking licence or movement licence: All pig movements must be accompanied by an eAML2 movement document (England & Wales) or ScotEID movement document (Scotland). These must be completed online before movement.
• Standstill rules: After pigs arrive on your holding, a 20-day standstill applies — no other pigs, cattle, sheep, or goats can leave your holding during this period (with some exceptions). Plan movements carefully.
• Feeding restrictions: It is illegal to feed pigs catering waste, kitchen scraps, or any material that has been in a kitchen — even if it's vegetable peelings. This is a strict biosecurity rule related to swine fever risk. Pigs can be fed on approved raw vegetables, fruit, and purpose-made pig feed only.

Choosing a Breed

For smallholders, traditional and rare breeds are often the best choice — they're hardier, better suited to outdoor systems, and produce excellent-quality pork with good fat cover.

• Tamworth: Hardy, active, excellent forager. Good for woodland or rough ground. Lean meat, slower-growing than commercial breeds.
• Gloucester Old Spot: Docile, good maternal instincts, well-suited to orchard or pasture systems. Popular with smallholders.
• British Saddleback: Hardy, good outdoor breed, excellent pork quality. Calm temperament.
• Oxford Sandy & Black: Friendly, good forager, attractive colouring. Rare breed worth supporting.
• Large White x Landrace (commercial cross): Fast-growing, efficient feed conversion, widely available as weaners. Less suited to fully outdoor systems but fine with good shelter.

For a first-time keeper buying weaners to finish for pork, any of the traditional breeds or a commercial cross will work well. Buy from a reputable breeder with healthy stock and a clear health history.

Housing

Pigs need shelter from sun, rain, and cold. They don't thermoregulate well — they can't sweat (hence the mud wallowing, which cools them) and are susceptible to sunburn, particularly pink-skinned breeds.

• An ark or field shelter with deep straw bedding is the standard outdoor setup
• Allow at least 1.5–2m² of covered space per pig
• Pigs are clean animals by nature and will designate a dunging area away from their sleeping area — work with this by positioning the shelter away from the corner they choose to dung in
• Provide a wallow (a shallow muddy area or a filled tyre) in warm weather — this is a welfare requirement, not a luxury
• Ensure shade is available in summer — pigs can get sunburned quickly, especially light-skinned breeds

Fencing

Pigs are the most challenging livestock to fence. They root under, push through, and lean on fences with considerable force. Electric fencing is the most effective solution.

• Electric fencing: Two strands — one at 15cm and one at 30cm from the ground — is the standard setup. Pigs must be trained to respect the fence before being left unsupervised (introduce them in a small pen first).
• Permanent fencing: Stock boards or pig panels with a strand of electric wire inside is a robust permanent solution
• Check the fence daily — vegetation touching the wire drains power. Pigs will find a weak spot.
• A good energiser is essential — see our Electric Fencing range for suitable units and accessories

Feeding

Pigs are omnivores and will eat almost anything — but what you feed them legally and nutritionally matters.

• Pig nuts / pellets: A complete compound feed is the simplest and most reliable option. Available as grower pellets and finisher pellets.
• Feeding stages: Weaners (8–12 weeks) need a higher-protein starter/grower ration; finishing pigs (from around 50kg) can move to a finisher ration with higher energy and lower protein.
• Vegetables and fruit: Raw vegetables (carrots, beets, apples, pumpkins) are a great supplement and pigs love them. Must not have passed through a kitchen.
• Ad-lib vs. restricted feeding: Ad-lib feeding produces faster growth but more fat. Restricted feeding (twice daily) gives better control over finish weight and fat cover.
• Water: Pigs drink large quantities — up to 10 litres per day for a finishing pig. Fresh, clean water must be available at all times. A nipple drinker or trough that can't be tipped over is ideal.

Health Care

Worming

Roundworms (Ascaris suum) are common in pigs kept on the same ground repeatedly. Treat with flubendazole in feed or ivermectin injection. Rotate ground where possible to break the lifecycle.

Mange

Sarcoptic mange causes intense itching, skin thickening, and poor growth. Treat with ivermectin. Bought-in pigs should be treated on arrival as a precaution.

Iron Deficiency

Piglets kept indoors or on concrete need an iron injection at 3 days old — sow's milk is low in iron and piglets are born with minimal reserves. Piglets with access to soil will root and self-supplement.

Erysipelas

A bacterial disease causing diamond-shaped skin lesions, lameness, and sudden death. Vaccination is strongly recommended, particularly for breeding stock. Discuss with your vet.

Foot & Mouth Disease Awareness

Pigs are highly susceptible to FMD and are efficient amplifiers of the virus. Report any suspected cases of lameness with blistering immediately to APHA. Do not move pigs if FMD is suspected.

Slaughter & Processing

• Pigs must be slaughtered at a licensed abattoir — home slaughter for sale is not permitted
• Book your abattoir slot well in advance — many have long waiting lists, particularly for small numbers
• Typical finishing weights: 60–80kg deadweight for pork; 80–100kg for bacon weight
• A movement document (eAML2) must accompany pigs to the abattoir

Browse our Animal Health Products range for pig health supplies, and our Electric Fencing range for pig-proof fencing solutions.